Ошибка p2714 тойота тундра

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Выполняются все перечисленные ниже условия (логика диагностирования за 2 поездки):

Температура охлаждающей жидкости составляет 40°C (104°F) или выше.

Температура ATF составляет -10°C (14°F) или выше.

Автомобиль движется с рычагом переключения передач в положении D.

В электромагнитных клапанах (SL1, SL2, SL3, SL4 и SLT), датчиках оборотов трансмиссии (NT и NC), датчике температуры охлаждающей жидкости двигателя, датчике температуры масла, датчике детонации, датчика положения коленчатого вала, электронной системе управления дроссельной заслонкой или системе передачи данных CAN неисправностей не обнаружено.

Разница частоты вращения, определенная на основании показаний датчика частоты вращения первичного вала NT и сигнала датчика частоты вращения выходного вала NC, превышает нормальную на каждой передаче.

Электромагнитный клапан (SLT) остается открытым

Электромагнитный клапан (SL1, SL2, SL3 или SL4) остается открытым или закрытым

Корпус клапанов трансмиссии заблокирован

Автоматическая трансмиссия в блоке с главной передачей (муфта, тормоз, передача и т.д.)

ON (ВКЛ): отсутствие действий (нормальная работа).

OFF (ВЫКЛ): Повышение магистрального давления (если выполняется испытание, ECM передает команду на выключение электромагнитного клапана (SLT))

Выполнение испытания «Activate the Solenoid (SLT)» в режиме Active Test позволяет изменить магистральное давление для проверки с помощью SST, установленного на автоматической трансмиссии. Этот же SST используется при проверке магистрального давления.

Величины давления, измеренные при выполнении данного испытания в режиме Active Test и при выполнении проверки магистрального давления, различаются.

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   dusdau [OP]
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   I got a 2007 Tundra Limited 4×4 5.7l a couple months ago, and it started not wanting to shift into higher gears, stay in 2nd and 3rd gears, etc. The TC off light came on, 4WD Lo flashed, and VSC off light came on. I cleared codes, reset ECM, and drained and filled fluid. Worked fine for a week or so, but everything came back. I found the TSB TC017-07 related to this suggesting the transmission be replaced and ECM. It’s 2022 and it has 271k miles, so of course no way Toyota is covering that. Shop suggested the same to the tune of $6,000 for rebuilt one with 82k miles.

   ***One oddity I don’t think I’ve seen anyone else run into, is that it looked like the previous owner replaced the oil pan recently, and when doing so bypassed (crimped) the cooling lines and the cooler was ‘smashed closed’ as the shop put it. The shop discovered this and also said the fluid smelled burnt. Any ideas on why this was done is appreciated***

   I am not going to do that just yet, and am taking back to my house. I’ve seen bad wiring harness, bad solenoids, bad secondary air injection pump, etc. Seems like based on codes it’s electrical. Also, the ground strap underneath off the transmission was also frayed in half, but I don’t really think that matters much overall.

   If anyone else has been through this, any input, what to look for first, etc. I’d really appreciate. Trying to avoid a transmission replacement if I can, but coupled with the inherent problem and it’s at 271k miles, maybe it’s just too late. Thanks in advance.

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   07TundraCM
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   Did you ever find the problem? Having the same issue and same codes

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   dusdau [OP]
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   The related solenoids are Part Numbers 3524050030 and 3529034010. I replaced those, cleaned the filter, followed Toyota’s procedure for getting ATF fluid to the correct level when I filled it back up, and it’s going on a month or so and has been running like it should. I also disconnected the wiring harness (and the place it plugs into) on the driver’s side of the transmission pan with electronics cleaner. Some forums say that may be corroded and causing the issues, but mine seemed okay so made sure it was clean and had a good connection. The previous owner had disconnected the trans cooler, so I replaced that and hooked it back up too. That would cause overheating and since the cooler was damaged possible the fluid had been low too. What part of what I did fixed it, I’m not 100% sure. I didn’t test the old solenoids, but just went ahead and replaced them. All that’s still pretty fresh in my mind, so if you have questions, let me know (like how to pin down the thermostatic valve when getting the new fluid to temp if you have a 4×4…it’s required to get to the right level).

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   07TundraCM
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   Yes that would help a lot if you don’t mind
   Also where did you purchase the solenoids

   Last edited: Sep 30, 2022

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   dusdau [OP]
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   Sure. Just let me know what questions you have. Hopefully it’s something similar and not in fact a bad transmission. Not only the dollars involved but a remanufactured AB60 transmission in the 07 is impossible to find now. Those codes are electrical related, but that can be caused by several things.

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   07TundraCM
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   Just how you pin down the thermostatic valve and where you found the solenoids. I can go ahead and order them and while waiting I can change the fluid and clean connections and see if they resolved any issues

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   dusdau [OP]
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   Here’s a good link for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlh0eyQevsc&t=141s
   The thermostat is on the passenger side sort of beside the transmission pan. The valve faces back towards the rear passenger wheel. I had to spray down with electronics cleaner first. It was stuck a little. Just because it was beside me and knew it wouldn’t hurt anything. But mainly just needs a blast of air. Use a paper clip or a very small drill bit. The ATF temp needs to cycle to operating temp and I THINK that was 115 for the 07 Tundra. I kept checking that with an infrared thermometer by unscrewing the check plug and then back in really quick. Once to temp, unscrew the check plug and wait until it’s trickling. There’s YouTube vids on doing that too. The important steps is that therm valve (4×4 only) and then getting to correct op temp. I ordered parts through Toyota dealer. It may be worth a shot cleaning harness and draining and filling with new fluid and see what happens. You’re going to be driving on pins and needles either way.

   

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   KDLK
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   Did you replace all the solenoids? I have codes for solenoid «C» and «D». And also my output shaft speed sensor, which I have already replaced. I’m curious if it’s actually the solenoids or a wiring issue. Have you seen any wiring diagrams for the solenoids or for the TCM pins? Thanks

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   dusdau [OP]
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    dusdau [OP]
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    I replaced just the ones related to the two codes I got. The part numbers for those two are in one of my previous posts in this thread, and I got from local Toyota dealer. It did take me some time to figure out the right ones, I remember that. I didn’t have the output shaft speed sensor code. It sure could be a wiring issue, as I did learn the odds of two solenoids going out at the same time is fairly small. I don’t have a wiring diagram, but did find the solenoid layout for the AB60E/F. Google ATRA and Technical Bulletin #1510 and you should find it. If not, I can take a pic, as I kept it. The C and D would then depend if it’s shift or pressure control solenoid. It looks like C would only be shift, and that’s solenoid S3 in the diagram. D is either shift S4 or pressure control SLT in the diagram. I did get a new harness, but didn’t end up going so far as to use it thus never looked up the layout of the pins. I unhooked it and it was in good shape and everything seemed well connected so I sprayed down both ends good with electronics cleaner. I frankly wasn’t too confident in my solenoid testing skills, so I just bought the two I needed and swapped them out. Some have a small metal pin holding them in, so heads up on that. Besides that, drained and filled fluid to Toyota specs and cleaned the filter along the way. It could have been some electrical issue that got resolved along the way, just low fluid (I tried alone at first, but didn’t fix it but I also didn’t follow Toyota’s guidelines correctly then), or the solenoids actually were bad. Pretty sure the fluid was getting too hot based on some questionable rigging the previous owner did, so they actually may have been. Keep me updated or let me know of any other questions or need a pic of the solenoid layout.

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    Hambone22
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    Hey Dustin new member here. Have you resolved your issue with what you’ve mentioned above? I am having the same issues and same codes, lesser the disconnected cooler. I’ve got everything I need to work on it this weekend.

    Thanks for sharing all the info. The ATRA diagram really helped me out!

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    dusdau [OP]
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    Sure seems like it. It’s been a few months or so, and it’s been running great. Took on a 7 hour trip down and back to OK and TX border last month and ran perfectly. I was sure sweating it most of the way there, but relaxed after a while. I did have P2757 (Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck) pop up a few days ago, but it didn’t seem to affect the drivability. Googled that and it can be of course several reasons why. Including low fluid, but I know that is spot on from the past repair, or even a dirty wheel speed sensor for some dang reason. I elected to clear the codes and remove negative for a while and then see if it happens again. I’m not sure how it would be related, but it also popped up a short while after I started turning off traction control.

    I hadn’t been turning any of those electronic nannies off at all because the last codes that you have now popped up when I shut them all off to go to ‘beast mode’ and I had Tow/Haul on every time I drove (the truck was new to me and read it really woke the truck up to do that). Again, probably all coincidence and I’d have had those codes come up anyway, but I wasn’t sure. Good luck this weekend, and let me know how it goes.

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    Hambone22
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    Thanks! Will do…..any trick to removing that S1 or SLT solenoid? I’m also planning to check all the wiring and harnesses, seems a lot of folks mention that.

    It seems odd to potentially have two solenoids fail at the same time.

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    dusdau [OP]
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    One or both of the solenoids have a small metal pin that holds them in place in addition to the either 8mm or 10mm head bolt holding the tab in place. So not really a trick, but be on the look out for those once you undo the bolt. That way you won’t cuss wondering why the solenoid won’t pop out because the pin is holding it in place or if one happened to fall out and you didn’t know it and had a pan of fluid below. Other than that, it’s not bad. You’ll see that the drain pan is designed in a way that you can angle it down with the back bolts still in and dump most of the fluid into the pan without much of a mess. If you take off the filter housing, a heads up to be aware of an o-ring above it where it goes into the hole for it. I missed it and after I thought I was done it was on the floor. I had to back track and look at schematics to figure out where it went to and if it was critical to put back in (it is). Bought a new one and did the drain and fill all over again. Spray down the pan bolts (both tops and bottom) really good a few times with Zep 45, PB Blaster, etc. between now and when you start. Then when it comes time see if you can get away getting them loose «bopping» (hit other end with hand quickly and a little forcefully but not crazy) a box wrench before using a full on ratchet. Obviously not sure of your set up, but if you need an excuse for a tool now’s the time, and Milwaukee has a cordless ratchet (M12) that saves a ton of time.

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    Hambone22
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    Well my new solenoids didn’t arrive Saturday as I had planned. Their updated ETA is Tuesday.

    I got under the truck and can’t find signs of any leakage, and I took a small sample of fluid out and it appears red and clean, which gives me a sense of relief that it may not mean there is any further damage to the tranny. The pickup is a 2007 with just over 140k on it.

    Do you recall if there are supposed to be some sort of crush washers or O-rings on the drain plug or overflow plug? I know the fill plug has an O-Ring.

    I’m still just baffled as to why two solenoids would fail at the same time. The more you read online, it seems common, but still odd.

    Tuesday I’ll have it on the lift at my buddies shop and get the SLT and S1 solenoids changed out, and see where it goes.

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    dusdau [OP]
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    That’s good there doesn’t seem to be any leakage, and that the fluid is in good shape. Yeah, odd two would go out. The overflow plug doesn’t have any sort of ring or washer. The drain plug has 35106B gasket. Frustrating when parts, or whatever it may be, don’t arrive when they’re supposed to. I also added some red Lube Gard to the fluid when I changed it, but whether or not it assisted in any way is anybody’s guess.

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    Hambone22
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    Copy that. It almost looked like there could have been a small weep from the overflow plug, but hard to tell. It was tight when I checked. Not sure why it would leak there unless the plug itself was worn out or perhaps some hairline crack in the pan. I don’t think I’ll worry about that too much right now but keep an eye on it after the job is done.

    I was also thinking of adding in some Lucas transmission fix or something along those lines. Figured it wouldn’t hurt.

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    dusdau [OP]
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    I was going with either the Lucas or the Lube Gard. Yeah, can’t really hurt.

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    Hambone22
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    looking at this, it seems the overflow does take a gasket if I’m looking at this right, but the actual drain does not? When I was looking under there yesterday, the overflow did not appear to have any gasket on it. Wonder if that could be the entire issue for me? Being I did see that small weep near the overflow plug. Who knows….I am down a rabbit hole now

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    dusdau [OP]
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    You are right, based on that. I switched them up when I was looking, but I do know my drain plug has a gasket. So I quickly assumed at a glance. If you’re on the Parts section of a Toyota dealer site or the like, see if you can find another attachment that has the gasket shown for BOTH. I’m on my local one (Adam’s Toyota of Lee’s Summit) I filtered down to my certain 2007 model, and it has two diagrams. One shows what you attached, but then another shows that gasket for both of the plugs (I can toggle back and forth). 35106B in the diagram. Part 3517830010. In the description of the part it even lists it’s for drain plug, overflow plug, transfer case plug, etc. I’m almost certain now that’s what I went off of, so both of mine do have the gaskets. It may be possible that’s your issue and maybe it did drain just enough to cause issues. Maybe start with a top of fluid (if you think the existing fluid is good otherwise), and then follow Toyota’s steps to get it back down to the right level after some topping off. Worth a shot. Sorry for the confusion.

    

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    Hambone22
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    Sure doesn’t seem like a bad idea. I imagine the OD of that washer/gasket is a good ¾» or so…I definitely did not see one. I don’t know if it would have just deteriorated away, or was never installed. This will be the first service since I’ve owned it.

    It would make sense that it’s had a tiny weep and its finally gotten down to a level where it could start to cause the issue. My thinking there would be the lesser volume of fluid would increase in temperature so high that would trigger the solenoid to fail.

    Who knows. Talk about a rabbit trail. I might just top it off, and if it runs as normal I will know that I don’t necessarily need to change out the solenoids.

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    dusdau [OP]
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    Let me know. From what I’ve seen, those codes also put it in «limp mode» when certain criteria are met to try and protect the transmission from more significant damage. Sure be nice if the low fluid, temps, etc. is triggering that and it’s resolved with the correct level.

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    Hambone22
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    Will do, yes, Limp mode is what I’ve been dealing with LOL. The solenoids don’t come in til tomorrow anyway, so I’m gonna crank some fluid in there and see what happens.

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    Hambone22
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    Well I got everything done last night. Only had a couple bolts seize up on the pan, so I was able to work them out gently with penetrating oil and ran a tap through the female threads and a die nut over the bolts. Cleaned up really well and reinstalled bolts with anti-seize. New solenoids installed, that woulda went faster if I didn’t lose one of the pins for 20 minutes. Refilled and checked and 40 mile test drive. So far everything seems to be proper and working as it should. I’ll give it a few more days before I hang my hat on it.

    Thanks for your help!

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    Pmcseq
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    Did you end up getting any anwers or figuring out your codes for solenoid C & D? I’m having the same issues on 08 Sequoia 140k miles.

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    KeepOnTruckin
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    Something to keep in mind is this:

    The solenoids or more specifically the ECM/TCU commands issued to any solenoid is really a messenger not a absolute finger «you’re it» when it comes to fixing an issue based on a error could for a solenoid fault.

    In short there is a turbin input speed sensor and a tailshaft output speed sensor and a bunch of maps in a computer that equate to a lookup table.

    For example if solenoids are commanded to move the vehicle forward in 1st gear, several fluid moving events occur and the computer begins looking at input speed and output speed data, does this forward motion equate to 1st gear ratio and is it within allowable range for slip and all of that? If yes, all is well. We move forward in 1st gear and no errors are reported.

    If no, that means commands were given but not necessarily followed. In this case, the computers throw an error pointing at the last commands issued which were those given to the solenoids to move us forward in 1st gear.

    Because of the complexity of a modern transmission, there is far more to consider than a defective solenoid as they really are a messenger between the command, and the action to move forward. Make sense?

    In the valve body are countless check balls, pressure releif pistons, controlled oil leaks, and oil circuits to pistons that must not leak or that circuit will not be able to perform its function (act on clutch pack or drum brake).

    Taking all that into account and the fact that our pan isn’t full of clutch material gives us hope that if a piston applies pressure, the choosen clutch pack or band will hold as intended.

    What I’m building up to is this: test those solenoids when they come out. They should hold pressure when closed, and flow when opened. Set up a rig to backflow solvent (kerosene) through them as 9 times out 10, debris is plugging them vs them being bad.

    If anyone happens to have diagram of the oil control circuit I would love to know if it’s possible to pull a valve or solenoid from the VB that would allow the TC to drain.

    I suspect the pressure controller solenoid has direct access to the pump and the torque converter and could do this if given enough time. This could really save all those dump and fills if we could drain the pan and torque converter in one stop!

    GL

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    dusdau [OP]
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    Never got notified of your reply. Still going okay? Glad to help and hope it’s still working out.

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    Pmcseq
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    Have your codes come back at all?

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    dusdau [OP]
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